Procesión Peruano

As I arrived in Cusco, I was warned that all of Peru shuts down for almost an entire week prior to Easter. Semana Santa (Holy Week) consists of several processions big and small, and the main Plaza de Armas comes alive with almost every cusqueñian resident either selling something or offering flowers to the procession. I managed to get my sick ass out off bed on Good Friday to catch the procession, which I heard was not to be missed. The procession started at La Iglesia de Merced, and proceeded around a few squares to culminate at La Plaza de Armas . The procession carried around the body of Christ in a glass sarcophagus, followed by a statue of the Virgin Mary covered in jewels and precious metals, all to the tune of what I felt was quite upbeat band music considering it was Good Friday. Apparently in Peru, there is no abstinence on Good Friday. Instead, Peruvians indulge in 12 traditional dishes!  Legend also has it that the statue of Christ that was sent to Cusco by the Spanish to aid in the conversion of the locals, got emaciated and blackened by the Earthquake of 1650. Cristo de los Temblores (Christ of the Earthquake) is revered locally for, as legend has it, stopping the earthquake in its tracks.  Many paintings and figures in churches around town portray a darkened Christ, also known as Señor de los Temblores.

As the sun set, the sarcophagus and statue of Virgin Mary were lit up, and people on the second floors of buildings the procession passed by, showered both figures with platefuls of flowers.  I stood, pancaked to the wall of a street named Plateros, as I watched 100s of peruanos follow the procession to the beat of all 3 marching bands. The old, the really old, and the really young were out braving the cold, following the procession around town, and even exerting themselves physically for their faith. There were some really really old men carrying the towering Virgin Mary around town. The discomfort, yet power in their faces were inspiring.

By nightfall, the main Plaza (Plaza de Armas) looked beautiful as the lit-up procession circled the fountain, and the streets were covered with people singing along.